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Tom Colicchio
La Petit Chef Supérieur Bocuse d’Or: Tom Colicchio provides insight into the culinary competition.

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With only five chefs left, you wouldn’t imagine we’d give them an easy challenge, would you? Neither would they, though I believe this week’s – in which we staged our own mini-Bocuse d’Or – surpassed their wildest expectations.

The Bocuse d’Or. It’s an incredible competition. To date, it’s not as well-known in the U.S. as abroad, though I think that it will become better known here in the next few years, as the U.S. develops a stronger presence at it. But to give you information about the competition, I first need to give you some background on famed chef Paul Bocuse, who founded the competition and for whom it is named…and to do that, I first should say a word or two about nouvelle cuisine, a term which was used as far back as the 1740s, but which Paul Bocuse helped put into the spotlight in its most modern iteration.

In its modern usage, the term was a reaction to and departure from French cuisine classique, the traditional way of cooking French food. For one thing, it is credited with the plating of dishes prior to service, as opposed to tableside after their presentation to the diners on platters (so, yes, it is interesting that the Bocuse d’Or went back to platters). This led, in turn, to smaller portions and to attention to and development of presentation styles on the plate. It also led to exploration of the cooking itself. Cuisine classique was standardized; nouvelle cuisine led chefs to go outside traditional boundaries, bringing new, often regional fare into the mix, using fresh vegetables and fruits, relying less on the traditional heavy sauces. Because the food was plated, the personalities of the individual chefs began to show, which led to food writers wanting to know more about the chefs themselves, which led in turn to Paul Bocuse coming out of the kitchen and becoming a personality. He made no bones about it. When he started opening restaurants in Japan (he has six) and at Disney World, as well as a cooking school, he was asked, “who cooks when you are not here?” and he famously answered, “the same people who cook when I am here.”

And so Paul Bocuse, one of the original proponents of nouvelle cuisine, was the first celebrity chef of sorts. He created the Bocuse d’Or in his search for absolute exceptionalism in cooking. He wanted to discover chefs who could elevate culinary art by creating a competition that whole nations could get behind. It’s become a huge international competition, approached like an international sporting event, often with state sponsorship of the participants (can you imagine going to Congress to ask for a line-item for this…?) It’s a spectator event, and rowdy attendees make noise for their nation’s participants. And it’s a pressure-cooker of a competition, cooking metaphor intended. The competitors begin preparations months in advance, first planning and figuring out their dishes over a period of months, down to the most minute details, then ascertaining how to make the most complex dishes in the shortest amount of time, then practicing for yet more months, over and over again, until they can execute the dishes like clockwork, with precision, down to the moment. The Norwegian team actually travels in a trailer with the exact proportions of the kitchen they’ll be cooking in. A documentary was made a few years ago about that year’s Spanish team, and it’s highly dramatic.

Of course, our five cheftestants had twelve hours, not several months. They had no chance to hone the dish before it went into practice. Before I say another word about their individual dishes, I want to say that what they accomplished in this small period of time was nothing short of amazing, even if our judges went on to judge them as critically as had they been competing in the actual Bocuse d’Or.

Comments

171 Comments

: 12/10/2009 - 6:04pm; jkfromcincty; I'm sorry that Kevin didn't win. It seems like he did have a final bad day of cooking. But, apart from that, he's been my favorite chef from all the Top Chef seasons. Obviously, he's a great chef and his food has been the most appealing to me. Also, I think he is a terrific person. He's been very generous in his support of his fellow chefs. He never seemed the least bit manipulative and unpleasantly ambitious. He's a nice, likable guy. We will be hearing much more about him in the culinary world.

: 12/05/2009 - 5:54pm; phans; This has been a very enjoyable season to us.. The contestants have been there to cook... no "snarkey" attitudes, they all seem to like each other (I discount those who comment on the brothers.. they ARE brothers in the same occupation after all and it is natural for them to be competitive)..and no one has been mean/cruel or trying to throw one another under the bus as in past seasons. I enjoy the "non-drama".. personally. The past seasons always had the long clips trashing each other, being mean, cursing each other out, trying to sabotage each other.. So glad that this season has not focused on that. We phans want to see them cook and view and learn from their talent. We do not care much about their personal issues..or what gender they prefer to date!!! This is a cooking show!! So nice to see the original Top Chef back. These chefs are all top notch and it is just interesting to watch and see how the pressure of the challenges creates the tiniest imperfection for elimination at this point, since they are ALL top chefs and great personalities. Being from NJ, the Philly area, we were all rooting for Jen, but, even though she did not win the final, we all know to go to Philly and look for her food! She is a doll and held her own to the end. The rest are all amazing as well. Great season and great chefs. Hope next season is as good. Best to Padma!! We hear that she is expecting a baby!! She is still as gorgeous as ever and it will be nice to see her expand..her family, her horizons, and herself!! We don't care if she comes back skinny/super model.. She is gorgeous and hopefully she will embrace that at any size and be a normal mom with no weight issues!!! We'd like to see Padma as a real mom and not worry about looking the same as she does in the super model days!! We love her!!

: 12/03/2009 - 12:15am; egg; Wow, what a great episode and the talent of these four shined. Kevin always trusting his simple foods with great flavors and Bryan honing his supurb technique. Michael ever challeging himself and jennifer stepping up to the plate. Sorry to see her go but I feel the judges made the right decision, as for Jennifer stepping up was a little too late. Good Luck to the finalists, WE WILL BE WATCHING

12/02/2009 - 10:57pm

KellyRae

I rarely watch television but love Top Chef. However, I have found this season extremely boring. I'm not sure if it the challenges or those competing or the fact that the final four were so predictable from the very first episode this season. Maybe it is the whole combination.

I'm, also, not sure where people are getting the observation about certain people's attitudes and Kevin being so professional. I seem to recall on this episode, Kevin taking several stabs at his competition. The only person that I think has maintained composure is Brian. The fact that he helped explain a cooking technique to Kevin also speaks volumes. I don't see any fighting with other contestants when Brian is present, he is very calm and focused when he cooks, and maintains a high level of professionalism (Brian wasn't one of the chef's at the beginning that jumped into the pool, if people remember, but Kevin surely did).

Obviously Kevin appears to be a great chef. But, he has had several fumbles that some seem to forget. Especialy during the Restaurant Wars. They all were so worried about disagreeing with each other, in that group, that they ended up destroying all chances of winning. And I do recall the multiple poor remarks Kevin received about the pork being poorly cooked, cut, etc. And his dish was the one holding up the servers the longest.

Also, Brian knows what his errors are when he serves a dish. He has an interesting technique that is served beautifully. Kevin's may taste fantastic but some look extremely unappetizing. Kevin's dishes just lack that certain execution of someone with the potential to become a master chef. Brian appears to have the ability to shine.

It is unforunate but Jennifer really has fallen the past couple weeks. And I was really pulling for her. She is very professional in the kitchen, also. Michael, I just can't seem to get a grap on who he really is a chef. But, I think when Michael can learn to incorporate his wealth of knowedgle and develop his niche, he is going to be truly amazing!!!

So, even though this episode was extremely boring....in 5 minutes we'll see who gets eliminated out of the final four. I wish them great success in life. And, thank you Tom for your thought provoking feedback and genius. Besides the chef's, I think you make the show, Tom!!

Thank you.

12/02/2009 - 4:30pm

KHS

As I understand from Tom's explanation, Kevin has won a chance to compete to qualify as the USA representative to the Bocuse d'Or. For more information, I looked up the application process - apparently Michael, Brian, Jennifer, any of the other competitors or any other chef with the professional qualifications required can apply to compete to be the USA rep.

For this Top Chef elimination, Kevin tried a cooking technique he never uses, got advice from a competitor - AND COOKED HIS DISH MORE SUCCESSFULLY THAN ANYONE ELSE. If I heard what I think I did, Brian said he used the same technique to cook his protein and failed to cook it properly.

Kevin has an incredible skill set and had the guts to try something new at this critical juncture in the competition - that gets him the win without question!!

: 12/02/2009 - 3:41pm; Finbar Devine; Methinks you just gave away who the new Top Chef is by posting those pictures of Kevin. I realize he won the Bocuse d'Or challenge, but his body language in those pictures is that of a winner. As is the body language of those around him. Maybe it's a moot point, since everyone thinks Kevin will win anyway...

12/02/2009 - 12:09am

feednotfatten

Man, I am worried. How in the world will TC be able to top these challanges in Season 7. I think back to other seasons and have to laugh at the thought of Big Crazy Cheeto Mike competing in this last episode . . . Tom's head would have been shiny with sweat.

Yep, I know the talent is at a different level. Yet, it seems predictably boring to have chefs who have shadowed Eric Ripert working with the self-proclaimed "comfort cookin" Robin. It's like a contestant on Dancing with the Stars who's been dancing "professionally" for 15 years, competing with a sport's announcer.
ZZZzzzzz . .somebody wake me up when it's over.

: 12/02/2009 - 12:02am; Beverly; I love Top Chef! I record it every week, and look forward to watching every week! I cheer the winners and am sad for the losers. I can't cook. Not at all. But I like to watch Food Network and Bravo/Top Chef. Don't know why.
I am a fan. PLease continue showing Top Chef. I love it!

12/01/2009 - 9:16pm

Longing

Thank you Tom for the informative posting regarding the Bocuse d’Or Episode. I gained quite a bit of insight from it and will be watching to see how Kevin does in his quest to compete in the finals.

I have been a Top Chef fan from day one. In all honesty, I cannot believe that ANYONE would be rooting for either of the brothers.

From the start of this season they have both demonstrated the snootiest attitudes I have ever seen on television..they have been rude to their fellow cheftestants and seem to absolutely hate each other. Not once when one brother has won - has the other brother been happy for him. So much for the great American ideal of Family.

No matter how contrived or complicated the dish is - it is the taste that matters when all is said and done. Would you go back to a restaurant if you didn't enjoy the meal you had? I wouldn't.

I have supported Kevin since this season began - he is consistant, he thinks his dishes out before he constructs them - and based on his body of work - deserves to win this competition.

Jen obviously needs to go back and learn more from Eric....and the brothers need to learn they are not the greatest chefs to ever cook in the USA. Their egos should not be more important than the food they prepare.

12/01/2009 - 8:59pm

Kenneth

Tom-

In the Bocuse D'Or episode, you asked Tim Hollingsworth how coachable Bryan Voltaggio is. Did you or the one of the other judges (Padma, Gail) ask this question about the other chef contestants? If not, why not? I think it was an intriguing question and would liked to have known how the other contestants ranked in this aspect. If so, I believe the editors of this episode should have kept them (including responses) in the final edit, if only for fairness symmetry.

I may have mentioned this in another comment, but I also believe the episode should have illustrated or commented about Gavin Kaysen's unfortunate "diswasher ate the project" incident that probably kept his entry from ranking higher.

Overall, great episode.

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