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Top Chef
Tom Colicchio

Vegas used to be synonymous with casinos, but just as the coffee bar has replaced the bar most everywhere, so has the theme hotel supplanted the casino as Vegas’s main attraction.  You still think of gambling, but you probably think first now of the intentionally over-the-top, billion-dollar hotels that have shaped the cityscape there since the late 80s. It’s conceivable now to go to Vegas and never even make it to the casino floors, instead staying in a world-class hotel, enjoying the themes, going to shows, indulging at the spas … and having a great time.

Vegas’s theme hotels are considered some of the finest hotels in the world. I thought it would be interesting to see what in them inspired our chefs. As a chef it’s hard not to draw inspiration from everything, so to tell a chef to go draw inspiration from a building was not at all an esoteric or “out there” challenge. Usually there is something visual that creates a spark of interest and then a chef will just riff on that. Look at Michael, for example: for compelling reasons, he saw the fireboat by the Statue of Liberty at New York, New York … thought of firefighters … thought they like pub food such as chicken wings (though those are more closely associated with Buffalo, NY than NYC). Mandalay Bay took the time to put together an exhibit that stressed environmental sustainability. Bryan saw the substance beneath the perceived smoke and mirrors and was inspired by it.

While there were three dishes in the top and bottom, in both cases it really came down to two.  Jen’s dish was more boring than it could’ve been, and the meat was a bit tough, but apart from that there were no glaring mistakes — certainly nothing to rival those of Robin and Eli. She didn’t really know about medieval cooking. I believe that had she known more about how rancid meats were the motivating factor behind the spice trade, or about the use of honey, those facts would have triggered ideas for her and her dish would have packed a larger punch. But when her meal was placed alongside those of Eli and Robin, there was no chance of her being sent home.

Between you and me, I kind of liked Eli’s dish. It was not successful by a long shot, and I understand why my fellow judges truly did not, but I enjoyed it. I think the raspberry dome should have topped the other elements (circuses happen under the big top, right?) — it would have been fun in a way befitting the circus theme to break through that to find what surprises awaited beneath. Even so, the theme was better realized than in Robin’s dish, where she just never translated the Dale Chihuly glass sculpture from the lobby of the Bellagio to her dish.  The colors of the flowers in that handblown glass sculpture are so vivid, the texture so striking, and yet we were handed a piece of white panna cotta in a pale purple sauce with a piece of amber sugar on top (which, incidentally, made the photo taken for the episode, but didn’t make it to our plates). Right now every pastry chef who watched the program is thinking, “Ohmigod, there are SO many ways to pull this off!” If you know how to work with sugars, you cold make little translucent flowers in a host of colors, using dyes. Even if you’re not proficient enough to work in sugars, there are myriad ways to work with the colors and the idea of flowers. Panna cotta is basic, simple fare, but Robin’s wasn’t well done; the texture was wrong. And the sauce was terrible. What can I say? At the end of the day, every element of her dish failed. Eli’s dish was less bad. And so it was Robin’s turn to go.

As for the top dishes: Kevin’s dish was solidly good. I’m not sure how his salmon and vegetables told the story of the Mirage, but the dish was good. Kevin was smart in assessing that the hardest part of the challenge would be the simultaneous arrival of the 175 guests. And so he planned well, with both a cold and a hot component. The salmon was perfectly cured, and it was a smart decision to use the compressor on the cucumbers. The compressor puts them under pressure, they become translucent, and all the liquid is forced out of them. The tomato water he used was well made, everything was well seasoned and the dish was very unified … and Kevin was able to expedite it for 175 people. Well done.

Bryan showed similar foresight in planning his halibut escabeche with bouillabaisse and garlic chips. He could handle it for a crush of people because it was not a hot dish. I not only liked that he took the theme of ocean sustainability from his hotel, as I mentioned above, but I further appreciated how he expressed his inspiration in the dish itself.

Michael did what he does well. He completely reworked the notion of spicy chicken wings and created a dish that was utterly reconceived, fresh and new, yet true to the essence of the original.  Yet his win was about more than just his inspiration or his conception of the dish. His execution of this multi-component dish was excellent on all counts. He made good use of the antigriddle (which is just as it sounds:  an device that freezes something on contact). Michael used the antigriddle with the bleu cheese mousse. He applied it thinly, almost in a disc, scraped it off and voila! The chicken was perfectly cooked. And as for the hot sauce, Michael juiced peppers, reduced it down, added the chiles, the tomato…and ended up with a sauce that perfectly mimicked the bottled stuff his firefighters (and the rest of us) love. Funny as it may be to knock oneself out to create that particular product, I have to applaud Michael for going that route!

And so, while Kevin made a fine dish, the two truly special ones in this challenge were Bryan’s and Michael’s, and Michael edged out his brother by taking more risks and doing something more interesting. What he gave us weren’t really chicken wings; they were braised yet, as I mentioned above, had all the flavors of the traditional dish. His was surprising, fun, clever, well executed and well presented. Win-worthy.

Five chefs left standing … two more challenges in Vegas … Have a good week, all.

Comments

143 Comments
11/20/2009 - 11:23pm
TCIndy

Please don't change the format as others have requested. It's a GAME. Yes, a competition to find THE top chef, but, you win some, you lose some.

I have found that the judges will bring into play the body of work when having to decide between two losers. I would rather they not be "required" to do so. Certainly in the early going, that would be extremely unfair, as nerves and getting used to a weird living situation could certainly cause some very bad days.

Further, not everyone does all food, all situations, etc. It's not fair to ding someone that sucks as desert cooking if they succeed at catering a 3 course meal for 100 by themselves. I think the point is to find the All Around Top Chef, and I support keeping the format as it is, leaving it to the judges to do their judging on their terms.

11/19/2009 - 5:47am
Clayton Morton

Hi Chef,
I love the show and am a Chef myself, and can't wait to see how whos food will reign supreme. I was wondering how to apply to become a contestant. I have worked with some of the best chefs in the country and have learned a great deal and would love to showcase my talents on Top Chef, it has been a dream of mine. I have worked side by side with Jimmy Schidt of the Rattlesnake club of Detroit, Susan Goss Of Zinfidel's of Chicago, Bob Kinkkead of Kinkead's in D.C. Johnathan Eisman, and Raji(god rest her soul) of Raji's in Memphis Tenn. And they have all said that I have a talent that should be explioted. If you could point me in the right direction I would be in your debt Chef. On a lighter note, has Bravo ever thought of a run off of top chef but featuring a Pro's vs Joe's Iron Chef type competition with top chef contestant winners or losers going in a head to head battle with challengers across the country?? Just a thought, would give the viewrs a different perspective, don't you think??

11/19/2009 - 2:38am
ina5

The glass artist's name is: Dale Chihuly!

11/18/2009 - 10:54pm
Rob Bailey

Hi Tom, I have been a loyal watcher of Top Chef since season 1 and it is still my absolute favorite show!
while I am not a professional chef, I think that I could hold my own with anyone that has been on the show. Of course I do not have the diverse culinary knowledge that many of the contestants have demonstrated, I still believe that I can produce dishes that would be able to compete with the best of them.

Of course I realize that you probably get thousands of letters such as this, but I would gladly embrace the opportunity to prove myself equal to the challenge. while my dishes are not as sophisticated as many of those produced by the contestants, I feel that what I can put on a plate is as flavorful and as presentable as morer than the majority.

Of course I do not expect to ever hear from you, I will still continue to be a faithful watcher of TC and of yourself and the rest of the crew.

Respectfully,
Rob Bailey

PS. Padma is soooooo hot!

11/18/2009 - 7:08pm
.victor bohy

i just have to tell you,, that i have been bothered by something ever since TOP CHEF LAS VEGAS began airing!!!.. in the opening credits one chef is filmed rubbing his beard ,. while another{ i beleive his name is Hector} is filmed running his hands over his hair!!!!!! how ABSOLUTLY disgusting that a food professional would touch thier faces and hair with their hands while in their chefs coats!!!!.. and BE FILMED DOING IT!!!!!! YUK!!!!!!!

11/18/2009 - 3:37pm
David Newell

Would folks please post some alternative ideas to the dishes presented? Personally, I think Eli should have done TIGER prawns in ELEPHANT garlic with a spicy PEANUT sauce. That dish would have tasted great and from there he could have sold the concept. He would have needed to mention the circus elements over and over. Otherwise, people would have asked each other if they liked the Thai garlic shrimp.

I think it is important to note that Eli and Robin both had disastrous results in their attempts to incorporate inspiration; but, Eli plated his.

Kevin had the Mirage and served a light fish dish with citrus, mint and broth and never really sold the idea. It was refreshing and presented a drink within the dish. It was also a satisfying piece of protein for the guests.

For those future contestants with the brains to read all these blogs now, SELL your concept. I can get Buffalo chicken wings with blue cheese dressing up the block in Vancouver, BC. New York here means delis and thin crust pizza. Personally, I wish he had been the soup nazi instead. "No soup for you!"

11/18/2009 - 10:09am
gardenchef

LOVE LOVE LOVE the show and Tom you are the coolest! I look forward to your blogs each morning after the show. I wish I had discovered the blogs in seasons past and I agree with pother posters, there is a lot to be learned from your writing as well.

My thought...
I know chefs are sent home on the 'dish of the day' but realistically wouldn't it be truer to the title of TOP CHEF if chefs were to be judged on the 'dish of the day'. And then equally in their menu of work to date. You could have a wins, losses...ranking board and use that criteria after judging the dish of the day for a more authentic to the titile TOP CHEF elimination.

I must add though: it is inevitable that the final 3 are clearly the best, no doubt about it. But I'd like to see their body of work judged as well. Then there wouldn't have been a question about Robin (sweet woman, but out of comfort zone as I would be and I love to cook). And Jen would be in a better spot right now. She's having such a tough time beliveing in her abilities and natural creative talent now & it's getting in her way.

JMHO

Bring on more seasons...it's my fav show!

11/18/2009 - 8:29am
mmc

Just wanted to say I'm looking forward to tonights Top Chef.I wish all of them good luck, but my faves are Kevin, Bryan, And Jen if she can get back on track.

11/18/2009 - 8:19am
LINDA SAIENNI

TOM - Amazing talent this season so where is the top judge Anthony Bourdain?? He is THE guest judge we so look forward to seeing. Waiting for him to critique the dysfunctionally competitive/sensitive Voltaggio brothers! Also I am confused as to why you keep mentioning how well Jen did early on. How is this relevant to a current challenge? You seem to be trying to influence the guest judge & also beating Jen down a bit. The premise has always been to judge only the challenge at hand. What's going on?

11/17/2009 - 8:15pm
Medb

I have to say, I was disappointed to hear a respected chef like Tom Colicchio repeat one of the most often-repeated myths about medieval food, but this has already been well-covered by other posters. I'm a medieval re-enactor with an interest in food and cooking. I have to disagree with Syd, though, on exclusion of ingredients. Rice and pasta were both available during the medieval period. Rice was introduced through contact with Asia during the Crusades. Pasta dates back to Roman times. In fact, I have a copy of a recipe for macaroni and cheese that I believe dates back to the fourteenth century. Yes, medieval food was differently spiced, but not as much as it would seem at first. If it had been me, instead of beef, I would have used pork. A pork loin, split and stuffed with a mixture of dried fruit and spices, glazed with honey or mead and roasted actually reaches a good middle-ground, where it's reasonably authentic to medieval western European food, but still accessible to modern palates.

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