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- Tom Colicchio
- “If you can mock a leek, you can eat a leek” –William Shakespeare, Henry V
- Tom Colicchio wishes he had as much great produce as the chefs had to work with.
You saw the gorgeous proteins that our cheftestants were falling all over themselves to nab when they first arrived at my restaurant for the Elimination Challenge. At Craftsteak we have every kind of beef imaginable (not to mention, of course, the cuts of lamb, pork, veal…) and I don’t doubt that at least some of the chefs are familiar with our menu and were thinking of what they could do, given free reign with those ingredients in that kitchen … until we switched it up on them, that is.
But no meat should not have meant no inspiration. I don’t know if you noticed, but the walk-in at Craftsteak was filled with the most amazing produce. We ran a truck in from the Santa Monica Green Market the night before filled with just the most incredible stuff. I was itching to get at some of it myself. I personally love walking through the Green Market in Union Square and seeing what the farmers are offering that day — it’s the produce that so often is the inspiration for my dishes, not the meat. Further, while Craft and Craftsteak serve plenty of meat dishes, we have a huge roster of vegetables and, in fact, many people come just to eat those offerings, knowing that they’ll have a great culinary experience. With this challenge we were giving the chefs the opportunity to be inspired as I so often am, by having brought the green market right to them. I just wish the chefs had allowed themselves to get really excited by what they found in the walk-in, despite having to do a 180-degree turn at 90 MPH.
I wish I could remember the comedian who said, “Sure, hunting’s a sport … it’s just that one side doesn’t know it’s playing.” (The first person who comes up with the name gets an autographed copy of my book Think Like a Chef. Other people have ripped him off since). We can debate the merits of eating meat versus eating vegetables. There are certain acids in our stomach that are present solely to break down meat, that wouldn’t be there were we not supposed to eat the stuff. But along with those acids, we also have freedom of choice, and while I personally like being at the top of the food chain, I fully respect the choice to abstain from eating meat, whether for reasons of health or conviction. I thought this was a great challenge.
For the most part, the chefs did well.
I know that Mike V. was furious that Kevin won this challenge — as we all saw in the episode, he felt that Kevin’s techniques were more rudimentary than his and didn’t merit the win. He said something to the effect that he could have made Kevin’s dish in culinary school, that he cooks that way when whipping things up at home on his weekends off. In general, please do not be snowed by the techniques employed by the Voltaggio brothers. Yes, they’re employing advanced techniques versus Kevin’s more basic methods, but at the end of the day unless you can pull off those elevated elements and actually make the food taste great, I don’t care how many blowtorches it took to create the dish — Kevin’s food not only is consistently well executed but also tastes really incredibly good. Young chefs are often keen to use technological wizardry and forget how to just roast something and make it really delicious, and perhaps Michael would do well to use the “weekend technique” he’s disparaging in order to make his food soulful and flavorful. In general, when Kevin has won challenges, the Voltaggio brothers’ methods might have been more advanced and out there but were weaker on seasoning. So I usually agree with the results when Kevin wins.
That said in response to Michael’s comments, I will also say that as regards this challenge, I was a huge fan of Michael’s dish and was talked out of my position by my fellow judges. That combination of banana and asparagus was so out of left field, and yet it worked. It gave us an interesting combination of the grassy asparagus with the rich banana. And yet there wasn’t the overwhelming banana flavor you’re probably imagining: if you were blindfolded and given a bite, it would take you a moment to realize you were tasting banana. It was an interesting background flavor — subtle, not caramelized and sweet — and it made sense in the dish. Mike showed great foresight and took an enormous risk: the dish could have been utterly disgusting and could have gotten him sent home. And yet it was great.
As for the bottom three dishes, while Jennifer gave us what amounted to a side dish or an appetizer, it was very well crafted and an overall competent dish. In light of what her colleagues in the bottom three gave us, Jennifer wasn’t going to be sent home for that dish. Robin’s dish was a poor dish. It was what we might get from an accomplished home cook who says, “Oh, I like this … and I like that … and this would look pretty with them, too….” The elements were not in harmony, there was no cohesive vision, and it missed the mark. It wasn’t very good, but Michael Isabella’s was terrible.
Before we even discuss the leeks, let me confirm for those of you who weren’t there to taste the dish that while the leeks may have been the primary problem, they were not the only problem. Natalie was right to say that the rest of the dish underwhelmed. As for the leeks themselves, they were butchered; they were horribly cooked. Certain ingredients can withstand imperfect preparation; please never serve me a badly cooked leek. Mike had time to correct what was happening and didn’t. But even had he done so, I still can’t quite grasp what Mike was striving for, conceptually. Why did he think it was in any way inventive to make leeks look like scallops? That’s just silly — there’s no reason for it. A leek is not a scallop — it’s not even a protein — and there’s no reason to make it look like one. This was a challenge about vegetables and was an opportunity to honor them, rather than turn them into faux-finishes of proteins. Furthermore, even were I to accept the premise that making a leek look like a scallop was a cooking innovation, I’d think it would have made more sense then for Mike to have roasted it as one would roast a scallop, which would have yielded a far more satisfying taste and texture than the one he was striving for and failed to attain. I don’t get it.
Mike I. knew his dish was bad — he even acknowledged as much to while we were shooting the reunion episode — but seemed to count on Robin’s dish being worse, so he never seemed to actually consider that he might be packing his knives. I really think he believed that as long as Robin was still there, he was safe, that there was no chance she’d outlast him. Jennifer, on the other hand, was wholly focused on her own performance, without giving a thought to those of her competitors. She understood that a mistake could get any one of them sent home.
As it can. We’re down to six chefs. Stay tuned.
- 11/20/2009 - 11:55pm
- Tools
kerrie,
It's you. There's nothing uninteresting about watching competent, classy professionals doing their best. You want "compelling" characters? Go watch Big Brother.
- 11/12/2009 - 11:10am
- Elaine Koogler
I study Medieval and Renaissance cuisines as a hobby and must agree with Syd, with a few additional thoughts. We have been working to dispel the myth about heaving spicing masking rotten meat for some years now. I have studied cuisines from most European countries as well as the Middle East, China and Japan and can tell you that this is definitely a myth. As Syd pointed out, the only people who used spices other than herbs that could be grown in the garden were wealthy households. Spices were imported at great expense from the Indies, mostly. Even pepper was rare. On the other hand, acquiring fresh meat was relatively easy. There are many recipes for beef, pork, veal, lamb, mutton, game of all sorts, fish of all sorts, etc. The meat might be aged, but we do that today and don't think we're eating rotten meat.
Even in wealthy households, spices were kept under lock and key and often there was an officer who was responsible for the dispensing of spices for the day's cooking. Often food would be heavily spiced as that was a way that a host could show his guests just how wealthy he was!
Another reason why some of the recipes appear to use enormous quantities of spice is because the spices at that time were substantially less potent than they are today. Shipping from the East took months or years...and by the time a spice reached its destination, much of the strength of the spice would have faded. Consider how much strength a spice loses in your own cupboard if it is more than a year old.
I doubt you'll do it, but those of us who study Medieval and Renaissance cookery would really appreciate it if you would correct the misinformation you have passed on. I enjoy watching Top Chef and have learned a great deal not only from watching the contestants meet the challenges, but from your and the other judges' commentary. That's why it is so important that you make this correction...I am far from the only person who has and is learning from you!
Thanks!
- 11/12/2009 - 1:33am
- Syd
I'm a medievalist by trade but admittedly, not a food expert. However, I am in possession of a medieval cookbook made by scholars, not cooks.
I would say that "medieval food is heavily spiced" is pretty inaccurate. Maybe banquet food? I am certain that peasant food is bread, polenta, ale, cabbage, etc. One tactic would have been to do very simple grains and vegetables.
As for meats, game meats are popular, particularly aged ones (this is where the term "well hung" comes from). If I had been doing a "medieval" dish, rabbit, pheasant, and venison come to mind as appropriate. The use of game meat would most likely code for nobility due to the practice of forbidding vassals to hunt on the lord's land (which was pretty much all land in some areas).
In a collective eating setting, a banquet, your "table" might be a slab of hard bread. So I could see a bruschetta-type construction actually looking like medieval dinner. Stews and gravies did much to break down trenchers (your edible tables).
A banquet trick immortalized in a children's rhyme involved the placement of live birds in a pie crust (yes, it happened). Another popular technique would have been cooking a fowl, saving the feathers, and then reattaching them to the roasted bird to give the impression that the food is "alive." Food, for official occasions anyway, in the Middle Ages is more about spectacle--the display of wealth and artistic prowess--than taste.
My favorite medieval story about food comes from the Decameron. A Genoese lady is keen to deflect the attentions of a rather unpleasant suitor, who despite the fact that she is married, just won't stop bothering her. She invites him to dinner and serves a full banquet of dishes, but each one is made of chicken and only chicken. He comments that it would have been nicer to have some variety. Her reply? "No matter what they look like, all chicks taste the same." Now, that's probably misogynist, but also hilarious. And very much to the point.
So if I'm ever tasked with cooking medieval food? Maybe I'll do an all-chicken banquet. At the very least, I'd make sure I didn't cook anything with New World foods like tomato, chocolate, or potato, or Asian foods like pasta or rice.
Or failing creativity, I'll just take something and douse it in black pepper, which for many was the only available spice (and so expensive, that in parts of Europe you could pay your taxes with it instead of coin).
To be quite fair, nothing at Excalibur looked particularly medieval to me, except maybe the ale. And that chicken.
- 11/12/2009 - 1:32am
- Syd
I'm a medievalist by trade but admittedly, not a food expert. However, I am in possession of a medieval cookbook made by scholars, not cooks.
I would say that "medieval food is heavily spiced" is pretty inaccurate. Maybe banquet food? I am certain that peasant food is bread, polenta, ale, cabbage, etc. One tactic would have been to do very simple grains and vegetables.
As for meats, game meats are popular, particularly aged ones (this is where the term "well hung" comes from). If I had been doing a "medieval" dish, rabbit, pheasant, and venison come to mind as appropriate. The use of game meat would most likely code for nobility due to the practice of forbidding vassals to hunt on the lord's land (which was pretty much all land in some areas).
In a collective eating setting, a banquet, your "table" might be a slab of hard bread. So I could see a bruschetta-type construction actually looking like medieval dinner. Stews and gravies did much to break down trenchers (your edible tables).
A banquet trick immortalized in a children's rhyme involved the placement of live birds in a pie crust (yes, it happened). Another popular technique would have been cooking a fowl, saving the feathers, and then reattaching them to the roasted bird to give the impression that the food is "alive." Food, for official occasions anyway, in the Middle Ages is more about spectacle--the display of wealth and artistic prowess--than taste.
My favorite medieval story about food comes from the Decameron. A Genoese lady is keen to deflect the attentions of a rather unpleasant suitor, who despite the fact that she is married, just won't stop bothering her. She invites him to dinner and serves a full banquet of dishes, but each one is made of chicken and only chicken. He comments that it would have been nicer to have some variety. Her reply? "No matter what they look like, all chicks taste the same." Now, that's probably misogynist, but also hilarious. And very much to the point.
So if I'm ever tasked with cooking medieval food? Maybe I'll do an all-chicken banquet. At the very least, I'd make sure I didn't cook anything with New World foods like tomato, chocolate, or potato, or Asian foods like pasta or rice.
Or failing creativity, I'll just take something and douse it in black pepper, which for many was the only available spice (and so expensive, that in parts of Europe you could pay your taxes with it instead of coin).
To be quite fair, nothing at Excalibur looked particularly medieval to me, except maybe the ale. And that chicken.
- 11/12/2009 - 1:05am
- kerrie
Hey,
Is it just me or is this season missing something? I find it to be lackluster and uninteresting. I'm not suggesting that anyone needs to shave their head or threaten to shave anyone else's but I find almost all of the chefs to be devoid of any real personality. It's all so serious. No one is even compelling enough to dislike. I "sort of" root of for all of them in the hopes that someone will do something or say something that will amuse or entertain me. No luck, so far. Any thoughts?
- 11/12/2009 - 1:01am
- Addie
There is a difference between a vegetarian and a vegan. A large portobello cleaned of the gills, stuffed with a melee' of veggies would have provided all the needs of a vegetarian. Protein and a non-meat meal. In fact it would have even met the needs of a vegan. Vegetarians will eat eggs, milk, cheese and other by-products of an animal without sacrificing the life of the animal. Vegans are more extreme. The guest judge did say she was a vegetarian, not a vegan. So it left open a whole slew of foods available to use. All it required was a bit of imagination and the skills to provide a tasteful and pleasant dish.
- 11/11/2009 - 10:58pm
- Teacher Extraordinaire
I think the way we all learned our food science in health class, dairy, legumes, etc. are thought of as vegetarian proteins. Thank you to the person that explained that there is a lot of protein in leeks and spinach. I still say that the dishes that week were pretty sad looking. No stir fry, no rice, no noodles, few potatoes, very little color. With that produce delivery, there had to be some colorful peppers, fresh brussel sprouts, fresh spinach, apples, pears, nuts, etc. All of these contribute to beautiful hearty main dishes. As glad as I am Mike I. left, I'm eaqually ready for Mike V. Why does he have to be such a "Richard". He complains about others swearing at him, he turns around and does the same. he tries to take over someone elses work station and then tells them to RELAX! Even if he won this competition, I would never eat in his restaurant.
- 11/11/2009 - 4:24pm
- Alex K
Tom,
Thank you for acknowledging that crafting a vegetarian meal isn't about serving a substitute for meat or tossing together some unimaginatively prepared veggies. A chef should approach a vegetarian meal the same way she or he approaches an omnivorous meal: you take the highest quality ingredients you can get your hands on and you elevate them. And as Mike V. learned the hard way, elevation is not about complication. Sometimes a pinch of salt and a splash of olive oil is the best way to honor your produce.
- 11/10/2009 - 10:53pm
- Steven H
"A leek is not a scallop — it's not even a protein — and there's no reason to make it look like one."
The recent referencing of meat as "the protein" on cookery related programs brings rise to such inaccuracies as Tom's quote. Beef has about 16 grams protein in 134 calories; leeks have around 3.4 grams in 138 calories. So on a caloric basis, leeks have in the neighbourhood of 21.25% the protein of beef. Not too shabby.
Spinach is even more of a protein king than leeks. For 130 calories of spinach you get the same 16 grams of protein that you get in dead cow.
So, let us ban the association of protein as a synonym for meat.
Tom is right, though, a leek is not a scallop although it does have just over a quarter of the protein as a scallop.
- 11/10/2009 - 9:15am
- Dallas, GA Michelle
And Kevin McCaffrey took aim at those who consider hunting to be a sport. “It’s not a sport if both teams don’t know they’re playing.”
LOVE the show!
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